Eid Milad un-Nabi: An Islamic Festival in Jodphur, India

These photographs are a visual ethnographic documentation of Eid Milad un-Nabi, an Islamic festival that commemorates the birth of Prophet Muhammad, held in the busy streets of Jodphur, Rajasthan, India. 

Muslims in this festive procession are carrying green flags and wearing green items of clothing to represent "paradise" and the traditional color of Islam. 

For the unacquianted, Eid Milad-un-Nabi is celebrated by Muslims from the Sufi or the Barelvi school of thought. The festival is also called Nabid and Mawlid colloquially. The "Mawalid" word is derived from the Arabic word which means to "give birth" and in this context, the term refers to the observance of Prophet Muhammad.

An Anecdote While Documenting The Event:

What a strange day it was! As I was watching the Islamic parade celebrating the birth of Muhammad in front of the ever-busy Sardar Market, I found myself in a familiar yet unusual spectrum of the performance paradigm.

I intended to be the spectator but the role was suddenly reversed. Amidst the mob and the cacophonous chaos, I became the actor-spectacle - the center of attention, the uncanny, the bizzare, the exotic other - who, unconsciously, put a huge smile on his face, alternately waving at the cheerful marchers and gesturing a thumb sign of approval.

Some people even asked for photo-ops, while others wanted a handshake or a high-five. The young ones were friendly and very curious to know who I was. It was as if my bodily presence turned the event into something much more interesting or amusing.

This encounter has made me appreciate and love India, despite its dystopian extremes, even more.

*Photos taken with Canon EOS 1100D

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Going From Coimbatore to Ooty By Bus

After spending the night in Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu, I woke up early and left my hostel at around 7am to figure out how to reach Ooty by bus. As I have mentioned in my previous post, no train was on schedule to Ooty so there’s no other choice but take the bus instead. I did some online research about the public transportation in Coimbatore but couldn’t find any exact information.

The only way I could figure things out was asking random strangers in front of the Coimbatore Junction about the right bus that goes to Ooty. I was assisted by a young female student and was informed that I should go to the new main bus terminal, which is about 6 kilometers away from railway station. Apparently, there are no direct buses from the Coimbatore Junction to Ooty. She later suggested that I take the auto rickshaw if I want to get there faster. I told her I wasn’t on a rush and would prefer taking the bus.

I hopped on a public bus (I forgot the bus number, sorry. Fare:10 rupees) that goes directly to the New Bus Stand located in Mettupalayam Road. All buses plying from Coimbatore to Ooty and other nearby destinations such as Bangalore, Mysore and Karnataka are parked there with frequent departures every 15-30 minutes.

There are many options to choose from at the bus terminal. Volvo, AC buses run by private companies are available. As usual, I opted for the cheapest one – a public, non-airconditioned bus. Fare was 56 rupees (about 80 cents). What a great bargain!

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An Afternoon Walk in Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu

Upon arrival at the Coimbatore Junction, the first thing I did was confirm the train timetable to Ooty. I went to the ticket counter to ask and was told that no train was on schedule to Ooty for tomorrow and I should take the bus instead. What a disappointment! 

I didn’t bother asking why so I left and head off to my accommodation. I only had a day to spend in Coimbatore so I wanted to make the most out of it. I chose Hotel Raamus just opposite the railway station and got a spacious private room for 800 rupees (12$). It’s a decent, well-maintained hotel with an elevator. The only thing I hated about it was paying extra for the wireless internet.

An Afternoon Walk in Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu

Coimbatore is not a famous tourist destination in India. Besides three theme parks and a number of temples, which are common anywhere in India, the city does not offer other “peculiar” places of interest. Instead, it is an industrial city known for various industries and often compared to being the “Manchester” of the southern part of India.

After checking in, I basically walked around the central district of Coimbatore without direction, no maps or anything.

I stumbled upon an Indian restaurant along the main road close to the junction and ordered a set meal for 100 rupees (1.50$). Btw, I hate spicy food so ordering “Chicken Biryani” has always been the safest option for me.

Not that bad for the price! Humongous rice, chicken, with two side dishes and crackers:

After finishing my meal, I asked the waiter where I could buy a pair of slippers and he pointed me to the West. I forgot to bring my flip-flops and I have been looking for one since arriving in Kochi but couldn’t find one within my budget. I managed to get a decent pair for 70 rupees (1$) after haggling. Yay!

I also tried some traditional, odd-tasting Indian snacks (chichirya). 

In the next couple hours or so, I went roaming around Coimbatore and captured banal scenes of Indian life.  Before sunset, I went back to my hotel for a much-needed rest. 

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Walking Around Mattancherry, Kochi

For my second day in Kochi, I decided to go for a walk to Mattancherry, an interesting part of the city with traces of Dutch, Portuguese, and Jews history. This locality is about 2.5 kilometers away from Fort Kochi and 9 kilometers away from the town of Ernakulam.

There are two main tourist attractions in Mattancherry that every visitor should not miss. The first one is the Dutch Palace, also referred to as the Mattancherry Palace, located along the Palace Road. This palace-turned-museum was built in 1568 by the Portugese as a gesture of appreciation to the Raja of Kochi for permitting them to build Fort Emmanuel along the Fort Kochi Beach. It was later renovated by the Dutch in 1663, hence the name.

Entrance fee costs 25 rupees (38 cents) for Indians and 100 rupees (1.50$) for foreign visitors.

Here's what the gate to the Dutch Palace looks like:

In terms of its design, the Mattancherry Palace was built in the traditional Kerala style. It has a central courtyard where a mini temple for Pazhayannur Bhagavati, the protective goddess of the royal family, is located. In both sides of the palace, there are two other small temples dedicated to Krishna and Siva. Perhaps the most impressive part of the palace is its mural room, which features the entire scenes in the Ramayana and Mahabharat.

Nearby the palace is the Paradesi Synagogue at the heart of Jew Town, a heritage zone and busy street of spice trade in Cochin. 

Considered as the Commonwealth’s oldest synagogue, this structure was built in 1568 and currently stands as a testament to Indian hospitality towards the Jewish refugees who were allowed to settle in the area during the Crusades to escape prosecution in Jerusalem.

Entrance to the synagogue costs 40 rupees (60 cents). Cheap!

Clock Tower at Paradesi Synagogue:

Just outside the synagogue in Jew Town is a narrow alley of shops selling a variety of goods and souvenir items such as pottery, spices, jewelry, decorations, clothes, and many others. There's also a handful of antique shops in the area. There's even an antique museum that you can visit if you're into old artifacts.

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How to Reach Coimbatore from Fort Kochi by Bus & Train

Going to Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu from Fort Kochi, Kerala requires a combination of bus and train transportation and a bit of walking. 

I included Coimbatore as part of my itinerary in India for the sole purpose of cutting my trip to Ooty in half. I didn’t want to be exhausted and spend the entire day on the road. What you’ll read below are detailed instructions on how to get to Coimbatore from Fort Kochi via Ernakulam based on my first-hand experience.

Bus from Fort Kochi to Ernakulam Junction
 

The main bus terminal in Fort Cochin is located along Bellar Road close to the Chinese fishing nets. From there, you can find the buses going to Ernakulam town via Thopumpadi, Pandikudi, and Willingdon. The labels on these buses, however, are written in their local (Malayalam) language so better ask the bus conductor to verify and avoid getting lost. I think it is also possible to take the ferry from Fort Kochi to Ernakulam town but I left early in the morning so I didn’t bother going to the wharf.

The Ernakulam Junction is about 20 kilometers away by bus. It took me about an hour and a half to get there. I initially thought that the public bus would go directly to the train station but I was later told by the conductor that I had to be dropped off in Karshaka Road. From there, I walked about a kilometer to get to the station.

Train from Ernakulam Junction to Coimbatore

Numerous trains run between Ernakulam and Coimbatore. I did not have a difficult time buying a ticket in the counter. I managed to get an ordinary seat in a “Super Fast Express” train which leaves at 8:50am and arrives at 1:30pm. It’s a long 206-kilometer journey and I only paid 90 rupees (1.30$). Amazingly cheap!

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How to Get to Fort Kochi from the Airport the Cheapest Way Possible

Hitchhiking aside, the cheapest possible way to get to Fort Kochi in Kerala, India from the Cochin International Airport is to take the Orange public bus. Don’t dare to take the taxi as it will cost too much money. Fort Kochi is more than 40 kilometers away from the airport. 

I took the public bus and my journey went without a hitch. The journey took more than 2 hours as the bus kept on stopping to fetch passengers along the way.

Where to Find the Bus to Fort Kochi:
 

Upon exiting the departure gate, just turn right. Ignore the taxis waiting outside. The bus stop is not that far from the International Airport terminal. It is located on the left of the main road. Look for the KSRTC Orange Bus. Fare cost is around 80 Indian Rupees (INR) or 1.20$.

This bus operates every 30-40 minutes, with varying routes to Kochi City via Aluva, Kalamassery, Vytilla, and Thoppumady.

You can take any of these bus routes as they all terminate at Fort Kochi:

• Bus JNK1
• Bus JNK2
• Bus JNK3
• Bus JNK14
• Bus JNK19

 To double-check if you are indeed on the right bus, ask the bus conductor.

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Fort Kochi: Self-Guided Heritage Walking Tour

Situated in the district of Ernakulam in the state of Kerala, Kochi, also known as Cochin, is a charming city with a fascinating hodgepodge of cultural heritage: Indian, Jewish, Dutch, Chinese, Portuguese, and British. It was my first stop in my long backpacking trip in India.

As planned, I spent most of my time in Fort Kochi, which is part of what is known collectively as Old Kochi, because the important monuments and historical places are located there. There are other attractions in the nearby towns, but I decided to stay solely in Fort Kochi as I only allotted 3 days in the city.

Arrival at Fort Kochi International Airport:
 

My 6:00am flight via AirAsia from Kuala Lumpur to Kochi took about 4 hours. It was such an early flight for my liking but I bought it anyway because it only costs 1,800 pesos (38$), probably the cheapest 4-hour flight I have ever bought. To avoid the risk of being late, I left my friend’s house in Cyberjaya at 11pm to catch the last train to the Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) at midnight. I had to force myself to sleep while I was on the plane.

The plane arrived on time at 7:35am. There is a time difference between Malaysia and India; India being 2 hours and 30 minutes late. Upon exit, I immediately rushed myself to the immigration threshold as I wanted to reach Fort Kochi before noon and maximize time. I read online that crossing the immigration at the Kochi Airport usually takes time but I didn’t experience it. My arrival went smoothly, taking no more than 20 minutes to go through the passport control and Customs. I was also traveling without any luggage which also saved me time.

After exiting the Customs gate, I exchanged my 100$ to Indian rupees. There are several currency exchange shops at the International Arrival terminal. There is no point to compare as they offer the same exchange rates. Before leaving the terminal, I connected to the free wifi and pinned the location of my accommodation in GoogleMaps.

How I Get to Fort Kochi from the Airport
 

To get to Fort Kochi, I took the Orange public bus servicing the airport and Kochi City. You can read the full details here: How to Get to Fort Kochi The Cheapest Possible Way. Fare costs only 80 Indian rupees (1.20$), way cheaper than taking the taxi. This is the most cost-effective option to get to downtown Cochin.

Accommodation in Fort Kochi: Allan’s Inn Homestay
 

Finding the exact location of my accommodation (Allan’s Inn) was harder than I expected. From the Sta. Cruz Basilica where I was dropped off by the bus conductor, it shows in the GoogleMaps that I’m only a few blocks away but it is not accurate. I had to ask several people where the hostel is located, most of them clueless about its address.

After aimlessly walking around for about 30 minutes, I finally found the place with the help of an Indian guy who was kind enough to call the hostel’s owner and point me to the right direction.

Upon arrival, I was welcomed by an Indian lady named Fexy with a welcoming smile. I booked a private, fan room, including breakfast, for 600 rupees in this homestay accommodation for two nights. Besides the cheap price, I specifically chose this inn because of its proximity to key historical attractions in Fort Cochin.

After checking in, I changed clothes, rested for a bit, connected to the free wifi to load my desired locations in GoogleMaps, before heading off for an afternoon walk around town.

DIY Heritage Walking Tour of Fort Kochi

Fort Kochi is a small, walkable town with many attractions close to each other. From Allan’s Inn, many of the colonial churches are only a few minutes away by walking. This self-guided, DIY heritage walking tour of Fort Kochi lasted for about 3 hours.

My first stop was the Sta. Cruz Basilica, a colonial church originally built by the Portuguese in 1505 but was later re-erected by the British after its destruction. FYI, there are only 8 Basilicas in India and it is considered as one of the finest churches in terms of architecture. I only managed to take photos of its facade because there was an on-going afternoon mass and foreign visitors were not allowed inside during that time.

Afterwards, I walked along Princess Street, one of the oldest streets in Fort Kochi, where a number of restaurants, cafes, art galleries, and souvenir shops are located. Also lined up in this street are old buildings and bungalows built in the European style, giving a good slice of colonial European architecture. A good view of the entire street can be seen at the Loafer's Corner, a famous cafe at the junction of Bastion, Peter Celli, and Princess Street.

Not far away is another important cathedral, perhaps the most notable of all, not only in Kochi but the entire India, St. Francis Church. It is the oldest church built in India built by the Portuguese colonizers in 1503. It was also here where Vasco da Gama, a well-known Portuguese explorer, was buried in 1524, before his remains were transferred to Lisbon, Portugal 14 years later.

Also nearby is the popular Vasco de Gama Square, a promenade along the Mahatma Gandhi Beach where you can watch fishermen use traditional Chinese fishing nets. There are numerous stalls serving seafood and other delicacies in the area.

My final stop was the Dutch Cemetery. It is believed to be the oldest European cemetery in India. It is located down the street from St. Francis Church and parallel to the Fort Kochi Beach. Consecrated in 1724, the cemetery has 104 tombs.

If you wish to follow this self-guided heritage walk of Fort Kochi, I suggest you use the GoogleMaps.

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How to Apply for an Indian Tourist Visa (Multiple Entry) for Filipinos

This post is intended for travelers who want to travel and stay in India as a tourist for more than a month. Although it is now possible for Filipinos to obtain a tourist visa-on-arrival (VOA) in a number of major airports in India, I still opted to apply for a multiple entry tourist visa that would let me to stay in the country for 6 months.

India is such a huge country with diverse attractions. An Indian VOA, which is only valid for 30 days, would not be sufficient for my planned itinerary from Kerala (South) all the way to Himachal Pradesh (North). I also had a two-week side trip to Nepal from New Delhi so getting for this type of visa made total sense.

Applying and getting approved for a multiple entry Indian tourist visa was easier than expected. The Indian Embassy in the Philippines is outsourcing all its visa applications to a processing center named BLS International Services located in Makati City. The whole process of  submission took less than 30 minutes as there were, luckily, only a few people applying. I was able to pick up my approved visa after 4 working days.

How to Apply for an Indian Tourist Visa (3 Simple Steps):

1. Fill out the Online Visa Application Form
First thing first, you need to fill out the online visa application form: https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/visa/info1.jsp Once completed, take note of your temporary application number. Print and sign the application form and paste your photo as per permission’s specifications.

2. Prepare all your supporting documents.

Verify and arrange them with document checklist along your application form. In my case, I submitted the following requirements:

• Two 2x2” colour photographs
• Passport and photocopy of its bio page
• Copy of two-way airline tickets (This is not a requirement but I submitted it anyway because I have already booked my arrival and departure flights to Kochi and Kathmandu. A reservation ticket would suffice, based on the agency’s website.)
• My planned itinerary
• Recent Bank statement
• Alternatively, you can submit an invitation letter from family, friend, or sponsor in India. I didn’t submit this one as I was traveling on my own.

3. Submit your visa application and documents to BLS International Services. 

Pay for the tourist visa fee (2,210 pesos) and processing fee (148 pesos). Voila, you’re done! Wait for 3-5 days for processing. You will be notified if your visa is ready. You can either pickup your passport or have it delivered to your address.

* * *

For those who want to apply for an Indian tourist visa and other types of visa, you can visit the Application Center located at:

Address: 

BLS International Services
9th floor, 902, One Corporate Plaza,
A Arnaiz Avenue,
Makati City, Philippines

Contact Numbers:
 

+63 2 5555060/4789152
Telefax: +63 2 4789152
E-mail: info.ph@blsinternational.net

Submission Schedule:
 

9:00 AM to 12:00 PM

Passport Pickup: 
4:00 PM to 5:00 PM

Good luck on your visa application! If you have further questions, feel free to comment below.

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